How to Paint a Room
A fresh coat is the cheapest way to transform a room, and you don't need to be a pro. Most of a great paint job is prep. Plan a weekend: one day to prep and do the first coat, and time for the second.
Measure the room and work out how much paint you need
Most interior paint cans say one gallon covers roughly 250 to 400 square feet per coat, depending on the paint and the wall. Smooth, previously painted walls get the high end; new drywall, texture and big color changes get the low end. Plan on two coats. The calculator below does the math.
Buy all the paint for a room at once, and if you need more than one gallon, mix the cans together in a bucket so the color matches everywhere.
TRYPaint calculator
The calculator subtracts about 21 sq ft per door (3 × 7 ft) and 15 sq ft per window (3 × 5 ft). Check the coverage on your can and use that if it's different.
KITWhat you need
Paint and primer
Interior latex in your color and sheen. Eggshell or satin is easy to clean for most rooms; flat hides flaws on ceilings.
Brush and roller
A 2- to 2½-inch angled brush for cutting in, a 9-inch roller frame and cover, a tray, and an extension pole.
Prep supplies
Drop cloths, painter's tape, spackle and a putty knife, fine sandpaper, a sponge and mild detergent.
For safety
Good ventilation (open windows, a fan), a sturdy step ladder, and gloves.
HOWPaint the room
Do them in order. Ceiling first, then walls, then trim.
- Move furniture to the middle of the room and cover it. Put drop cloths along every wall.
- Take down pictures, curtains and nails you won't reuse. Unscrew outlet and switch cover plates and keep the screws with them.
- Open windows or run a fan for ventilation.
- Fill nail holes and dents with spackle. Once dry, sand smooth with fine sandpaper and wipe off the dust.
- Wash greasy or grimy spots (kitchens, around light switches) with mild detergent and water, then rinse. Paint doesn't stick well to grease.
- When the walls are completely dry, run painter's tape along trim, window frames and the ceiling line if you're not painting it. Press the edge down firmly with a putty knife so paint can't creep under.
“Paint and primer in one” works for most repaints of clean, already-painted walls. Use a separate primer coat when you have:
- New, bare drywall or lots of spackle patches. Bare spots soak up paint and show through as dull “flashing.”
- Stains from water, smoke or marker. Use a stain-blocking primer so they don't bleed through.
- A big color change, especially dark to light. A tinted primer cuts the number of coats.
- Glossy or oil-based paint underneath. Scuff-sand it and use a bonding primer so latex will stick.
- Stir the paint well. Dip the angled brush about a third of the way in; don't wipe it dry.
- Paint a 2- to 3-inch band along the ceiling, corners, trim, and around windows, doors and outlets, where the roller can't reach.
- Cut in one wall at a time, then roll that wall right away while the edges are still wet. That helps the brushed band blend in instead of showing as a stripe.
- Load the roller in the tray's well, then roll it on the ridges so it's evenly coated, not dripping.
- Starting a few inches from a corner, roll a big W (or zigzag) about 3 to 4 feet wide.
- Without reloading, fill in the W with straight up-and-down strokes. Finish with light top-to-bottom passes.
- Move to the next section, overlapping into the still-wet paint. This “wet edge” prevents lap marks.
- Don't press hard or keep rolling paint that has started to dry; that leaves texture and streaks.
- Check the can for the recoat time. Many latex wall paints say about 2 hours (for example, Behr Premium Plus lists 1 hour dry and 2 hours to recoat), but cool or humid rooms and dark colors take longer.
- Repeat the cut-in and roll for the second coat. Two coats give even color and a tougher finish.
- Wrap brushes and rollers in plastic between coats so they don't dry out.
- Pull the tape soon after the last coat, while the paint is still slightly soft, at a low angle. Waiting until it's fully hard can peel paint off with it. If it has dried, score the edge with a utility knife first.
- Latex paint cleans up with warm, soapy water. Scrape excess paint back into the can first, then wash brushes and rollers until the water runs clear.
- Close cans tightly and store them indoors away from freezing. Label leftovers with the room name for touch-ups.
- Put cover plates back on, and give the walls a few days before scrubbing or hanging heavy things.
Blotchy patches usually mean the wall needed primer or another coat. Lap marks come from rolling over drying paint; keep a wet edge next time. Peeling means the surface was dirty or glossy; clean, sand, prime and repaint that area.
FAQCommon questions
Do I really need two coats?
Usually, yes. One coat often looks patchy once it dries, especially with a color change. Two coats give even color and better durability.
What order should I paint in?
Top down: ceiling first, then walls, then trim and doors. Drips fall on surfaces you haven't painted yet.
What's the W pattern for?
It spreads a full roller of paint evenly over a 3- to 4-foot section before you fill it in, so you don't get thick and thin stripes.
Which sheen should I use?
Flat or matte hides flaws and suits ceilings and low-traffic rooms. Eggshell and satin are easier to wipe clean for living rooms, bedrooms and halls. Semi-gloss suits trim, doors, kitchens and bathrooms.
Can I paint over wallpaper?
It's better to remove it. Paint can loosen the paste and make seams bubble or show through.